Feature: 4 Oyster Perpetual Alternatives By Rolex’s Rivals
As Rolex’s entry-level model, the Oyster Perpetual was, until fairly recently, just about the only Rolex you could buy brand-new at an authorised dealer. But then the Rolex hype machine went into overdrive and before you knew it, an OP in “Tiffany blue” was being sold for several times its retail price and the watches in the windows of Rolex boutiques were replaced with neon-lit signs saying, “DON’T EVEN BOTHER ASKING!”.
Okay, so they weren’t really, but they might as well have been. Yes, even the humble Oyster Perpetual, a modestly sized, time-only, stainless-steel stalwart, is now out of reach for many of us.
But, hey, let’s not be irked by the increasing unavailability of Rolex and instead seize the opportunity to discover what its biggest rivals can muster up. We’ve carefully selected four no-frills steel watches that provide nothing more than hours, minutes and seconds.
Nomos Club Sport Neomatik
This recent release from Glashütte brand Nomos sees it simplify its popular Club Sport Neomatik model, removing the date and reducing the case size from 42mm to 37mm. Dial variations are petrol green and polar blue, both with a subtle sunburst finish and featuring a subdial for the seconds display at 6 o’clock. Nomos is, of course, known for making affordable in-house movements and the Clubs Sport’s automatic DUW 3001 is notable for its relatively slender proportions (just 3.2mm high—almost half the height of the current Oyster Perpetual’s Caliber 3230). As for the bracelet, it’s a doppelgänger for Rolex’s Oyster design, adding to the Rolex aesthetic.
Longines Classic Silver Arrow
Part of Longines' Heritage collection, this is a revived 1950s model that’s faithful to the original in most ways, including the distinctive ridged hour markers and the stylised “Silver Arrow” text that sits prominently above 6 o’clock. The dial is off-white for that faux-patina look, which isn’t to everyone’s taste, but this, together with the sword hands, brings to mind the dial of a 1950s-era Oyster Perpetual. Why not give it more of a pre-1940s look by pairing it with a bonklip steel bracelet? The self-winding movement inside serves up a “weekend-proof” 72 hour power reserve, beating the Oyster Perpetual’s by a couple of hours.
Hamilton Khaki Field
If you aren’t already familiar with Hamilton’s Khaki Field watch, feast your eyes on one of the best-value steel timepieces currently on the market. These are watches with an impressive military pedigree, having been mass produced in the US for American GIs fighting in the Vietnam War, before production moved to Switzerland in 1969. Available in 38mm or 42mm and with a black or white dial, it’s a watch that will never go short of compliments. However, in a nod to the original, Hamilton have paired it with a manual-wind movement, so you can’t just “set it and forget it”, as the saying goes. Though less dressy—and less shiny—than an Oyster Perpetual it’s still a versatile time-only piece that can look even more combat-ready on a NATO strap.
Omega Railmaster
Coming in at around the $5k mark, Omega’s Railmaster is in the same price bracket as a 41mm Oyster Perpetual and radiates retro appeal with its faux pumpkin lume and cross-hair dial. This revived model (the original Railmaster was launched in the 1950s) might have an air of simplicity but it’s actually an anti-magnetic tool watch that was originally built for railway workers who worked close to electrical fields. It runs on Omega’s Caliber 8806, a METAS-certified chronometer that provides a power reserve of 55 hours.
